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Pavoni, A. (2025). When terroir lost the plot. On re-grounding wine. Studi Culturali. NS, 39-62
A. Pavoni, "When terroir lost the plot. On re-grounding wine", in Studi Culturali, vol. NS, pp. 39-62, 2025
@article{pavoni2025_1777317626174,
author = "Pavoni, A.",
title = "When terroir lost the plot. On re-grounding wine",
journal = "Studi Culturali",
year = "2025",
volume = "NS",
number = "",
doi = "10.1405/120014",
pages = "39-62",
url = "https://www.rivisteweb.it/issn/1824-369X"
}
TY - JOUR TI - When terroir lost the plot. On re-grounding wine T2 - Studi Culturali VL - NS AU - Pavoni, A. PY - 2025 SP - 39-62 SN - 1824-369X DO - 10.1405/120014 UR - https://www.rivisteweb.it/issn/1824-369X AB - Terroir lost the plot when its speculative, relational potential has been frozen into a "dispositif" that reduces soil to inert substrate, land to a legally coded space of exception, and place to a socio-cultural fetish tied to identity, hierarchy and nationalist localism. In the context of planetary urban-rural transformations and soil crisis, this paper reframes terroir as an emergent "agencement" of soil, land and place, whose multispecies aliveness exceeds both protectionist appellation regimes and the «democratic», market-led critique that claims to liberate wine from tradition. Focusing on Natural Wine as a heterogeneous but movement-like field, the paper argues that its minimal-intervention ethos articulates an "anarchic critique" of terroir through three operations: reanimating soils, unarchiving land and trans-localising place. Natural Wine protocols, practices and participatory forms of verification thus decouple terroir from static origin, repositioning it as a grounded, more-than-human normativity and a site for alternative political-ecological value. ER -
English